1995 Everest Challenge- The First Disabled Ascent

Epilogue and Images from Base Camp

Tom Whittaker using the Telstra Fax Phone Terminal from Base Camp. Mt. Everest is in the background.

Tom Whittaker standing by large tent with Flex-Foot banner.

Click on the pictures for larger (60K) JPEG images.
(Photos Copyright © 1995 Everest Challenge)

View Tamas Brooks Mt. Everest Graphics

June 11---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker, Tom's father, from New South Wales, Australia.

Warren wrote:"Dear Gary & Katy,
I hope the disk containing the photographs from Base Camp arrived safely. I am not yet on the Internet but I hope to get there soon."

As I understand the story of the 1995 Everest Challenge, the summit party was Tom, Greg Child, Russell Brice and two sherpas. They left camp 3 at midnight and climbed by torchlight using head torches. Due to the cold, all but two torches ceased to function. Eventually, the party sheltered under an overhanging rock to wait for daylight. It was decided that Greg and the Sherpas should continue on to the summit. Tom was unable to continue due to fatigue so went back to Camp 3 accompanied by Russell Brice. Reading between the lines, we think that Russell Brice gave up his chance of reaching the summit in order to see Tom down to Camp 3 safely."

"Greg and the Sherpas reached the summit. They returned to Camp 3 about 2: P.M.. Greg reported that the last 1,000 ft. to the summit was more difficult than his climb to the summit of K2. In view of this, it was decided to abandon any further attempts to reach the summit. All got down safely. We are looking forward to hearing the full story. I have asked Tom to send you a short outline story of the climb. When you get it please fax me a copy."

"The Satcom-M Terminal was shipped back to Australia on June 8, so it should be back with Telstra any day now. I spoke to Russel Brice (Leader of the Himalayan 8000 Expedition) yesterday. He told me that from the 15th of May onwards, it became more and more difficult to establish communications with the Perth Land Earth Station. After May 22, when the last contact was made, all attempts failed so they packed the equipment ready to send back to Australia. During the 5 weeks or so that it was working, calls to the value of AU $2,608 were made from the terminal. There were 402 calls to 17 countries. Not bad! Telstra will examine the terminal to find out what went wrong. I will keep you informed."

"The problem with the terminal is a fine example of the corollary to Murphy's Law which states that: 'The probability of communications failing is directly proportional to the nuisance value of the event!'"

Regards,
Warren

June 28---
Fax received from Tom Whittaker, Prescott Arizona.

1995 EVEREST CHALLENGE
SUMMARY REPORT

Prepared by:
Tom Whittaker

Objectives:

No. 1:

To Place the First Disabled Person on the Summit of Mount Everest via the North Ridge Route

Summer Season -- April 4, 1995 through June 4, 1995

Climbing Members: Tom Whittaker, 46, amputee; Greg Child, 37; Russell Brice, 42.

Support provided by KarSang and LobSang, Serpa

The expedition failed to meet this objective, that of placing the first disabled person on the summit of Mt. Everest. However, the expedition was not without its successes. The summit of Mt. Everest is 8,848 meters (29,028 feet). By reaching 8,500 meters (28,050) feet, Tom Whittaker not only set an altitude record for any disabled mountaineer, but reached a point on the earth's surface that is only surpassed by three other mountains in the world (one of which is Everest itself). Although Tom failed to reach the summit, his partner, Greg Child, accompanied by KarSang and LobSang, Sherpa, reached the summit of Mt. Everest on May 26th.

NO. 2:

To make a Fifty-Two Minute Television Documentary for World Distribution by Adventure Film Maker Leo Dickinson.

This objective was fully successful.

Background:

This year the Everest window came in spades, and it came early. Beginning on April 28, the period of high pressure continued through May 12, resulting in stable, calm weather conditions.

Teams that had arrived early on the mountain were able to take advantage of this extended spell of atypical good weather. However, teams that arrived in mid-april, did not have the high camps or essential supplies in place. In addition, their members were not conditioned for high altitude ascents. As a result, their teams could only utilize this good weather to prepare the mountain and acclimatize their members.

By the 18th of May, I had spent 20 days at 21,000 feet or above, including three days and one night at 7,600 meters (25,080 ft.). On the 23rd of May, weather once again began to look promising high on the mountain and I climbed to the North Col at 23,000 ft. The morning of the 24th of May, I met Russell and Greg and we headed up to Camp Two at 7,600 meters (25,080 ft.), rested and re-hydrated and then carried on to Camp Three at 7,800 meters (25,740 ft.). On the 25th, using oxygen, the five of us climbed to the High Camp at 8,300 meters (27,390 ft.) and prepared our equipment for a midnight departure for the summit. On the 26th, at 1:00 a.m., we departed and made our way by head lamps to the start of the fixed lines on the Yellow Band.

The climbing was steep on mixed ground of rock, snow, and ice. The fixed lines were old and tattered and their anchor points unreliable. After two hours of climbing, three of the head lamps were no longer working, owing to the intense cold. By 4:00 a.m. we were still 300 feet short of gaining the ridge. Russell Brice called a halt to proceeding. It had become obvious that under a full expedition load of 35 lbs., and because of the visual impairment caused by the oxygen mask (in effect you lose all visual contact with your feet. This poses a problem, as the artificial foot reacts differently to the terrain and is devoid of feeling.) The resulting lack of precision of my feet necessitated I place too much reliance on the fixed ropes, posing a very real objective hazard to both myself and other party members should one of the fixed lines fail.

Based on my current speed and the technical difficulty of the terrain that lay between us and the summit, it was ascertained that I would not be able reach the summit and return on my oxygen supply. To compound these problems, strong winds had scoured the upper mountain of much of its snow, creating sustained difficulties that would pose a very real safety hazard. Rather than whittle away at the mountain and squander Greg's chances, it was decided he and the two sherpa would continue, and that based on Greg's report of conditions and his evaluation of the feasibility of the route, Russell and I would attempt the summit on the 27th.

Upon returning to the tent about 3:30 p.m., the first words out of Greg's mouth were, "Heavens, this mountain is more difficult than K2." In effect those words put an end to my summit aspirations.

It should be noted that Russell sacrificed his chance to summit to safeguard my descent back to our high camp.

Film: One Foot on the Road to Everest: film maker, Leo Dickinson:

Leo received funding from S4C, in Wales, to make a 54 minute documentary on Greg's and my attempt to climb Everest. The film will include footage of Greg Child's ascent of K2, and my work with disabled people and the program that I initiated and directed from 1980 to 1990 in Pocatello, Idaho. The film will include a re-creation of the car accident that led to my disablement and trace the course of events from Kathmandu to Base Camp at 17,000 feet in Tibet. It will trace our journey (22 kilometers) up the glacier to the 21,000 foot Base Camp and the subsequent climb and summit attempt.

The completion date is scheduled for September/October of 1995.

Tom Whittaker