APRIL 26---
Film with Japanese. Carry load up to fixed lines. Storming. Greg sleeps on North Col after having a heated exchange with the leader of another expedition who threatened to cut down our tents. Greg's response lacked subtlety and tact. The gist of the exchange was that if anything happened to the tents our friend would find his teeth so far down his throat that he may find it handier to clean them from behind and somewhat lower in his anatomy!

APRIL 27---
My condition getting worse. Feel like a Mack Truck is parked on my noggin.Therefore, head down to base camp at 17,000 ft. 22Kms on rugged skree.

APRIL 28---
Greg joins me, having spent time fixing line and setting tents on the North Col. He is very strong and acclimatizing rapidly.

APRIL 29---
Laundry and clean up, read, sleep, eat. I had no idea how run down I had become.

APRIL 30---
Weather turns bad. Snow, wind, temperatures drop.

MAY 1---
1st day of spring. Searched frantically for a virgin to sacrifice, but to no avail. Also Chinese Labor day. Fireworks and celebration.

MAY 2---
Greg leaves early to walk the 22 Kms up to Advance Base Camp. I finish off administration chores and head off with Leo Dickinson, after talking with my parents via the satellite link, thanks to the Telstra mobile satellite service.

MAY 3---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker, Tom's father, from New South Wales, Australia.

Warren wrote: "Tom asked me to relay this fax I received from him. Tom told me he is finding it very difficult to put detailed reports together when he is on the mountain. He thinks that I might be able to fill in some of the gaps. I spent some time in the Everest Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier when Tom made his first attempt in 1989. I have studied the history of the early attempts to climb Mt. Everest from the Tibet side."

"Tom said that he has been to the North Col at about 23,000 ft. His immediate plan is to acclimatize to 25,500 feet. This is about the altitude planned for Camp 3. He said that they have had some harsh weather."

Yours sincerely,
Warren Whittaker

MAY 5---

Fax received from Warren Whittaker.

Warren wrote: "A book by Walt Unsworth, "Everest" Published in London by Allen Lane in 1981, is said to be the best history written of the world's highest peak." "Ballooning Over Everest,"by Leo Dickinson, Published by Jonathan Cape, London, ISBN 0-224-03606-8 has stunning pictures of Mt. Everest. Leo Dickinson with a film crew from the UK are making a documentary film of Tom's expedition."

"I am no expert on the topic of acclimatization. But, in outline, the body needs time to adapt to the change in atmospheric pressure and the amount of oxygen available. If a climber goes too high too fast, mountain sickness may develop. If this happens, the climber must descend to a lower altitude immediately, if he does not, death is likely. The problem on Mt. Everest(and other very high mountains) is that climbers can not stay at high altitude for long periods because the climber's physical condition deteriorates.The problem is to balance the need to aclimatize against the need to maintain robust physical condition. (When I went to the Everest Base Camp in 1989,Tom gave me the following guide. 'Limit your altitude gain to about 1.000 feet per day, take a rest day every 3rd day.' This worked well for me up to 19,000 ft. At higher altitudes, other factors come into play.)"

"Tom went to the North Col (23,000 ft.) early last week. His next step will be to go to Camp 2 at about 24, 600 ft. and acclimatize to that altitude.Whilst at Camp 2 he will be helping to prepare the route to Camp 3. He will return to Camp 2 to sleep each night. This work will include putting in 'fixed ropes' to make the route safer for the Sherpas (High Altitude Porters) carrying loads to Camp 3. The Camp has to be stocked with food and oxygen bottles for use by the summit parties. Weather permitting, he should be there this week. He may return to Advanced Base Camp before going up to the final camp (Camp 4, above 26,000 ft. (I do not know the exact altitudes planned for these camps). Progress will depend on the weather and the rate at which the climbers can acclimatize. They aim to have Camp 4 set up by 15 May. The summit attempt will be made as soon as they get suitable weather conditions, which are expected any time after the 15th."

"Most years, there is a calm period at the end of the North West Monsoon and the arrival of the South East Monsoon. This calm period only lasts afew days, at best. The climbers must be ready to make their bid for the summit when the wind drops. Once the SE Monsoon arrives in the first week of June, the climbing season is at an end."

"I will try to call Base Camp on Saturday or Sunday and will let you know the latest news if I am able to make contact."

Regards'
Warren Whittaker

MAY 6---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker.

Warren wrote:"I have just spoken by phone to Base Camp. The latest news is that Tom, Greg Child, Russell Brice and one or two others are going to the North Col today. (about 6990 metres, 22,933 ft.) Camp 2 has been established at 7,500 metres, and camp 3 at 7,800 metres (25,000ft.)"

"There are a number of expeditions using the same Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp locations.. Himalayan Experience 8000 Mt. Everest Expedition,led by Russell Brice, a New Zealander, is not only providing the services for Tom, Greg and the film crew, but is also guiding 6 to 8 other clients.By sharing facilities, there is a major saving in costs. The Satcom-MTerminal, furnished by Telstra, is located in the Base Camp and is available to all the Expeditions. Anyone who happens to be in the Base Camp can use the Phone and Fax machine. I gather that they have a radio hook up between the Base Camp, Advanced Base Camp and the High Camps on the mountain. Tom can dictate faxes to anyone who happens to be at Base Camp and they can send them on to you."

"Next time you put information about the 1995 Everest Challenge on the Internet, please would you mention that Telstra Corporation Ltd (Australia) acting through its Mobile Satellite and Radio Services Division have provided an ABB Nera Saturn MiniPhone on loan to the 1995 Everest Challenge. Also Telstra is making available AU $1,000 satellite time free of charge to the expedition."

"The Terminal has to be located at the Base Camp. It was not possible to locate the terminal at the Advanced Base Camp because that camp is close to the foot of the North Face of Mt. Everest and it is not possible to get a clear line of sight to the Indian Ocean Satellite located over the Equator."

Regards.
Warren

MAY 16---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker.

Warren wrote:"I have just had a long talk to Dick Allen at Everest Base Camp. He reported that Tom and Russell Brice have been to 7,800 metres.This is an altitude record for a person with a disabiltity and Tom is happy about that. The filming is going well. Tom and Russell are back at the Advanced Base Camp and resting. I have asked Dick to pass a message to Tom to prepare a report on activities to date, and arrange for it to be faxed to you."

"Dick says that they have had 5 days of excellent weather and a whole bunch of people have made it to the summit, including a woman who did the trip solo, without oxygen or sherpa assistance! I think the name was Hargreaves,but I may not have heard it correctly."

"They have been having some difficulty getting the terminal to work properly. I have been touch with the engineers here so I hope they can tell Dick how to fix the problem."

Warren

* SPECIAL REPORT FROM MT. EVEREST *

Alison Hargreaves, "The world's best climbing mom," reaches the summit of Mt. Everest, solo, without oxygen or sherpa assistance!

(Note! See updated report, below, and also see the recent articles about the 1995 Everest aspirations of Alison Hargreaves and Tom Whittaker in Outside Magazine, May 1995, Page 30... gogrimm)

* END! SPECIAL REPORT FROM MT. EVEREST *

MAY 24---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker.

Warren wrote:"The last time I spoke to Base Camp was 16 May. As I told you, Tom was resting at Advanced Base camp, having been to 7,800 metres. I have had no contact with Base Camp since then. I have prepared a bulletin to request that a daily fax be sent out to you, but I have not been able to get it through."

"Certainly the interest shown on the Internet is good news. Congratulations on an excellent effort. What a shame we don't have more information to feed in. The next ten days or so are critical. Tom's bid for the summit must be made before the SE Monsoon sets in."

MAY 30---
No news from the Mountain!
Telephone conversation between Gary Grimm, Boise, Idaho, and Warren Whittaker,Tom's father, from New South Wales, Australia. 6: P.M. MDT

Warren reports that he and Tom's mother have been calling into the Everest Base Camp terminal every day, during the designated hour that the fax/phone is supposed to be turned on. They have also made random calls, at other times, when they think some activity may be taking place at base camp. They are not getting through. And, no one associated with the 1995 Everest Challenge expedition has reported that any faxes or phone calls have been made out from Base Camp.

Warren said he would check with Telstra again to see if they can determine whether there are any technical problems. He also said, that the fax terminal requires a generator to charge the batteries. If the generator is not working, or if the batteries are not charged the system will not allow the communication we are all waiting for. Something simple like a bad spark plug or dirty gas, could be the reason for the lack of messages.

This should be a reminder to us at home that this new amazing telecommunication technology can become useless if any part of the critical support structures tops working. Small things like a fouled spark plug and large events such as a major earthquake are a part of our lives and these constantly affect the outcome of events. Getting away from the vagaries of a modern lifestyle,is, after all, why some people climb mountains. Attempting a climb with a small group of friends allows the group to become common adventurers, where they are dependant only upon themselves, and the decisions they make together...gogrimm

* SPECIAL REPORT FROM MT. EVEREST *

June 2---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker,
Tom Whittaker reaches 28,000 ft !

Warren wrote: "I have just spoken to Cindy (Tom Whittaker's wife) at her hotel in Kathmandu. The news is that Tom reached (approximately) 28,000 feet (8530 meters) when he turned back. Greg Child went on with two high altitude Sherpas. Cindy had not heard if Greg reached the summit. Apparently this was on about May 26th or 27th. This information reached Cindy yesterday via the American Expedition terminal."

"I have asked Cindy to phone us or you when anymore information becomes available. Russell Brice and Tom are expected back in KathmanduJune 5th."

Regards,
Warren

* SPECIAL REPORT FROM MT. EVEREST *

* GREG CHILD & TWO SHERPAS REACH SUMMIT *

June 6---
Fax received from Warren Whittaker.

The good news is that Tom and the members of the 1995 Everest Challenge are safely down off the mountain. Tom arrived in Kathmandu yesterday."

"Tom, Greg Child and Russel Brice and 2 Sherpas set out from Camp 4 in the dark on 26, May. At 8500 metres (27,900 ft.), the party separated.Tom returned to Camp 3 accompanied by Russell Brice. Greg and the Sherpas continued on to the summit, returning to Camp 4 about 2: P.M. local time. Greg reported that the last 1000 ft. or so to the summit was harder than K2. In view of this, it was decided to abandon any further attempt to reach the summit."

"Members of other expeditions who reached the summit told Tom that they regarded his achievement in reaching 8,500 metres as more significant than theirs."

Regards,
Warren

* SPECIAL REPORT FROM KATHMANDU, NEPAL *

June 6---
Telephone conversation between Tom Whittaker, in Kathmandu, and Gary Grimm in Boise, Idaho 12:20 A.M. MST.

Tom told me that the shale rock and ice conditions near the summit of the North Ridge of Everest were very difficult for him to climb with his artificial foot and crampon. An oxygen mask also restricted his vision and the coordination between his feet . He felt that if there had been more snow and ice conditions, as is present on the Southside of Everest, his ability to climb to the summit would have been greatly enhanced.

He felt his physiology and stamina were up to the task of getting to the summit, and he already has thoughts of attempting another climb on the South Col approach in the future...gogrimm

June 11---
Please see the Expedition Epilogue and pictures from Base Camp for the most current information.