The King Range National Conservation Area
and California's "Lost Coast"
- BLM brochure
| "Lost Coast"
Along the northern coast of California, civilization has left its mark on all but the most rugged or remote stretches of coastline. Large areas which have not been touched by major highways, towns and subdivisions are few in number-Point Reyes National Seashore, Redwood National Park, Sinkyone Wilderness State Park and the King Range National Conservation Area. Extremely steep and rocky terrain forced the coastal highway route, State Highway 1, about 30 miles inland from the King Range. This obstacle to transportation and settlement remains today as California's "Lost Coast." The spectacular meeting of land and sea is certainly a dominant feature of the King Range National Conservation Area. However, it is also an area of mountain streams, trails and forests ideal for camping, hiking, fishing, hunting and sightseeing. There are five developed recreation sites in addition to several primitive camps. The King Crest and Chemise Mountain trails have been designated as National Recreation Trails. SIGHTSEEING, HIKING An areawide network of paved, gravelled and dirt roads is available for motorized sightseeing, giving access to numerous tumbling streams and wide ocean and mountain vistas. Most roads are signed indicating direction, mileage, and driving conditions. Be especially watchful for slides and washouts during the winter rain season. Backpacking is a popular activity in the King Range, both on the mountain trails and along the beach. The wilderness beach (Lost Coast Trail) is one of the most attractive features of the conservation area, with the abandoned Coast Guard lighthouse -at Punta Gorda, relics of early shipwrecks, and a variety of marine wildlife to be observed. The distance from the Mattole Campground to Black Sands Beach is 24 miles. Driving time by road between the two points is 2 hours. Several parcels of private property are located along the coastline; please respect landowners' private property rights. A cautionary note: a few points along the beach may be impassable during high tides. Tide tables should be consulted when planning any hike along the beach. On hiking trips it is easier to travel with the prevailing winds, north to south. Visitors on foot should watch for rattlesnakes in driftwood and rocky areas. The 16-mile King Crest Trail System provides foot and horse access along the main coastal ridge north of Shelter Cove. There are three trailheads-one at the end of the Saddle Mountain Road, one midway along the Smith-Etter Road, and one near the end of the King Range Road. The relatively easy walk from any one of these trailheads gives the hiker excellent views of the ocean and the Mattole River Valley. Access to the coastal ridge south of Shelter Cove is available on the Chemise Mountain and Lost Coast trails. Trailheads are located at the BLM's Wailaki and Nadelos recreation sites and at the entrance to Hidden Valley. Water sources are scarce along the upland trails and some of those shown on the map may dry up in late summer. Hikers should carry drinking water and plan to occupy dry camps. The BLM has not quality tested these water sources for potability, so be sure to treat all water to be consumed. Remember: Extreme care should be taken to prevent wildfires. Make certain your campfire is dead out! No smoking is allowed on upland trails. Hikers who wish more detailed maps than this recreation guide may wish to obtain the following U.S. Geological Survey topographical maps which cover the King Range area: (15 minute:) Point Delgada, Cape Mendocino. (7 1/2 minute:) Honeydew, Shelter Cove, Shubrick Peak, Bear Harbor, Briceland, Cooskie Creek, Petrolia. FISHING Salt water angling for salmon, bottom fish, and rock fish is a popular activity at Shelter Cove, as it is one of the few protected harbors on the northcoast. Boat launching and rental facilities, fish cleaning facilities, supplies, motels and restaurants are provided by private interests at Shelter Cove. Additional recreation opportunities include surfing, beachcombing, whale watching, onshore fishing for perch and cod, picnicking and overnight camping. The Mattole River, north and east of the King Range, is one of the finest salmon and steelhead streams on the northcoast. The section of river from the Mattole Campground to Honeydew is open from mid-November through February. Anglers should check California Department of Fish and Game regulations and license requirements as they are subject to frequent change. As on most northern rivers, good fishing days are often limited by turbid water conditions following frequent rains. HUNTING Hunting under State Fish and Game regulations is allowed on public lands within the King Range during appropriate seasons. Big game species are the blacktailed deer and black bear. Upland game species include quail, blue grouse, gray squirrels and brush rabbits. Hunters should be extremely careful to avoid shooting around residential areas such as Shelter Cove and Whale Gulch. Permission is required to hunt on private property intermingled with public lands within the area. OFF-ROAD VEHICLES Off-road vehicle use is no longer permitted anywhere in the King Range National Conservation Area. CONSERVATION Conservation and management of the natural resources of the King Range have been the subject of discussion and preliminary planning since at least 1929, when public lands along this stretch of coastline were recognized as outstanding and were reserved from disposal until the highest and best uses could be determined. This assured that these lands were not sold or otherwise passed out of public ownership. Increasing interest among local residents and conservation organizations led to the introduction of the first King Range Act by Congressman Clem Miller in 1962. After Miller's death, Congressman Don Clausen carried on the effort to achieve special recognition of the unique values of the King Range. His goal was reached on October 21, 1970, when Congressman Clausen's act "to provide for the establishment of the King Range National Conservation Area......" was signed into law. CLIMATE Along the coast, at or near sea level, the frequent and dense morning fog causes the climate to be mild and equable. Freezing temperatures are almost unknown, and snow is rare at lower elevations. The predominant feature of both the coast and inland is rain. From October to April the King Range is one of the wettest spots on the Pacific Coast. Honeydew, immediately north of the conservation area, records an average of more than 100 inches of rain a year, and as much as 200 inches may fall nearby. LOCATION The King Range National Conservation Area extends some 35 miles between the Mattole River and Whale Gulch, and up to six miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. The area is 230 road miles north of San Francisco, and 70 miles south of Eureka. The Redwood Highway, U.S. 101, provides access to within 20 miles of the King Range. Principal access routes are paved mountain roads originating in Ferndale, Humboldt Redwoods State Park, and Redway. TOPOGRAPHY, VEGETATION The King Range rises from sea level to 4,087 feet elevation at the summit of Kings Peak in less than three miles. On the western slope of this range, many short, steep streams run directly into the ocean. A combination of steep slopes, high rainfall, and unstable soil and rock formations has created many cliffs, huge rock slides and talus piles. The beach is usually narrow and, where a number of rocky points jut into the surf, may be nonexistent. The eastern slope of the range, while also steep and rugged, is not as precipitous as the western side. Streams drain less abruptly into the Mattole River. The northern portion of the King Range contains broad expanses of grass. To the south, coastal chaparral and Douglas fir forests predominate. A wide variety of riparian vegetation is found along the banks of most streams. CAMPING The Bureau of Land Management has developed recreation sites at four locations in the south end of the King Range National Conservation Area: Wailaki, 13 units; Nadelos, 6 units: Tolkan, 9 units, and Horse Mountain, 9 units. Each site has table, fire grill, food cabinet, sanitary facilities, and water. The Mattole Campground, located at the northernmost point in the King Range, is semi-developed with picnic tables, cooking grills, a portable restroom, and water supply. Trailers and motor homes should not exceed 20 feet in length. Campfire permits are required for all areas except developed campgrounds. Permits can be obtained from the California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection or from the BLM offices in Ukiah and Arcata. Please be certain that all fires are completely out before leaving camp. SPECIAL FEATURES
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